Category: Wales Coast Path

Leaving our car in a farm lane in Rhoslefain, making sure we caused no obstruction, we followed the track, then field to field, aiming for a large White House in the distance, then onto the road at Bwlch, passing the railway station in Tonfanau.

It is a brilliant day for walking – the air is clear, everything looks newly washed and laundered after the storm.

We take the cycle path across the Afon Dysynni. The walk to Tywyn is pretty straight forward. The caravans – sorry mobile homes, along the front soon come into sight. Lots of dog walkers about, glad to be out in the sunshine, their dogs bundles on energy.

When the lengthy promenade in Tywyn comes to an end, we eventually reach the sand dunes, it was easy to follow the path passing Aberdyfi golf course, one of the best links courses in Wales. We dropped down onto the pebble foreshore – the tide was out, so we were able to make our way across the pebbles onto the long sandy beach all the way to Aberdyfi, skirting the Yacht Club to reach our apartment located over Nandora’s dress shop.

Dinner at Coast Deli was the end of a perfect day’s walking.

I love that song by the Proclaimers, and that was our goal today to complete the Ceredigion stage of the Wales Coast Path and reach the 500 milestone.

This walk does not go anywhere near the coast, crossing the Dyfi estuary it takes you well inland, through backlanes, coniferous forest and ancient woodlands, with some first class views over the Dyfi estuary.

We were a bit apprehensive as we had been told that the route was not clearly signposted, and we had forgotten our map book!

Our fears were misplaced, there were only two places where we were slightly unsure, otherwise clear signposting with white top posts guiding us clearly through large fields.

We left the car park at Plas Machynlleth and almost immediately turned off to the right, Glyndwr Way and the Wales Coast Path run parallel at this stage. Up the well trodden “Roman Steps”, the first of our many ascents on this walk.

There are numerous twists and turns on this route, and I am not intending to recount every one, but did note some key landmarks

We diverge from Glyndwr Way down a leafy lane, through a field, onto a road towards Garthgwynion, continuing through the woodland of Llyfnant Valley.

Pass a house called Felin Llyfnant onto a road, cross a bridge and then left at a junction – you are now into Ceredigion.

When you reach a cluster of buildings, you have reached the aptly named Caerhedyn. Good dual use of bridleways for walking and riding along this stretch. We thankfully skirt Craig Caerhedyn, and start getting tantalising glimpses of the Dyfi estuary, before being exposed to the full view from Aberdovey across to Ynys Las and Borth in the far distance.

Dry stone walls, horses grazing on Foel Fawr, the bracken covered hillside turning brown as autumn approaches; onwards towards Cwm Einon otherwise known as Artists Valley so called after the 19th century artists who made their way here.

I vaguely remember that Led Zeppelin lived in a farmhouse in Artists Valley and wrote Stairway to Heaven. Deep green Moss and lichen here hug the trees, and the white frothy crystal clear water reminds me of a line from the song…… “In the tree by the brook, there’s a songbird who sings”. They could have been standing right here, when inspiration struck. (I do let my imagination run away with me at times)

From Cwm Einon there is road and track then meandering through several fields neatly guided by white topped signposts, before heading down to the main road at Tre’r Ddol then through the village to Tre Taliesin.

Finally, 508.5 miles in total to date.

Good signposting down Church Street and for about 4 miles the walk is fairly straight forward. Through Cors Fachno, part of the Dyfi National Nature reserve, a Designated UNESCO Biosphere site.

We were joined on our walk through the Bog by a large heron which swooped up from the ditches as we approached, leading the way through the peat mire. Its broad wingspan reminded Lucy of a Tetradactyl.

The horse flies were not such welcome companions, multiple itchy bites from the persistent beggars!

As you leave Cors Fachno head to the left and then right as you might be tempted to take the more obvious path leading directly to the right of the gate.

Onwards to Borth, where people were very friendly, telling us all about the submerged forest and pointing us to a sculpture in Welsh slate inspired by the forest and the Legend of Cantre’r Gwaelog – an ancient legend which speaks of a fabulous city covering the length of Cardigan Bay which was drowned by the incoming sea.

We stopped for a cuppa at Oriel Tir a Mor – yet another welcoming venue. They cater for small walking groups, so worthy of note.

We made our way through the sleepy town, heading up the slope to the War Memorial. Looking down at Borth, it looks very vulnerable, low on the shore line – the view takes in the curve of Cardigan Bay, across Dovey Estuary to the Lleyn and Snowdon peak.

The leisurely start to this leg had lulled us into thinking the walk was going to be super easy. Not so, from the monument to Clarach Bay the path rises and falls constantly.

Thankfully, it evened out somewhat for the last stretch to Constitution Hill, we then gratefully zig-zagged our way down alongside the Cliff Railway to the Promenade at Aberystwyth …

Following a steep climb up Allt Wen, we trudged along to Morfa Bychan, where the lovely team at the caravan park called a taxi. That was the end of our walk.

We did manage to take in the Sunday morning food festival before wisely calling off the weekend . Lesson learnt you not only need good legs for walking, you also need the rest of your body to be fully functioning ….

A pleasant encounter in the shared kitchen at Maes Bach made the weekend. A young woman from Newfoundland offered to share her breakfast. She had been a student at the University and had taken Welsh lessons, she was on her way to Nantgwrtheyrn for a Welsh refresher course. She loved Wales

We spoke in Welsh, she was currently living in Denmark and learning Danish. I admired her youthful commitment to absorbing the language and culture of both countries.

We walked up the lane towards the village, and opposite the garage doubled back on ourselves through Pengarreg Caravan Park, where we stopped to enjoy a cool drink and take in the Bank Holiday car boot sale – (the water colour I fancied was a bit too large to carry for the next few miles).  We didn’t stay for the advertised Sumu wrestling entertainment !

Once passed the caravan park the path is wonderfully isolated, we only saw one other group of walkers, although our peace was initially shattered by the sound of what I call “motorised sea chariots” out on the bay…. it was a bank holiday after all!

When the noise stopped, we walked in perfect silence for miles, the only distraction was a red kite swooping down towards the sea and some curious sheep. I call this the mushroom walk, based on the number of fungi we came across en route – as a child I used to think of them as fairy houses – always a vivid imagination!

The path itself has worn into a single file groove – it reminded me of a drunken man walking home from the pub with one foot in the ditch and one on the road.

We stopped at Penderi Cliffs to watch a pregnant cow seal sunbathing on the rocks below, this is only the second seal we have seen on our walks along the coast, so much excitement.

There are a couple of farms along this stretch and they look so in keeping with the landscape, solitary and sturdy. The trees that surround them stunted and bent by the winds. Some of the coastal fencing has been moved further inland to account for a gently eroding coastline.

Probably a little walked area of the Coastal path judging from a rusty gate and one hanging on a hinge but for peace and quiet on a relatively easy stretch very satisfying.

We stayed at Penrhos Golf Club, the only one night stay booking available for the bank holiday weekend. We were delighted with it, large rooms, good wifi, we savoured a deserved glass of wine or two and a nicely cooked steak, served by a charming bespectacled young man and a lovely raspberry haired young woman, both extremely helpful.

That said, this is a very pretty stretch of coastline, if you ignore the very obvious MOD security fence in Aberporth.

In Llangrannog we swiftly climbed from the beachfront to the statue of St. Carannog who founded the first church here somewhere between 480AD and 520AD.  He was the grandson of Ceredig whose name has been taken for this region – Ceredigion.

We touched the statue for luck, we followed the cliff path, before heading through fields. With Pen y Bryn beach in our sights, the heavens opened. We scurried onwards to the little tea Room called The Plwmp Tart along with other crazy outdoor bikers and walkers.

The downpour soon stopped and we made our way into the small woodland across the car park, we clambered up some steep steps. We were about to leave the woodland, when it rained again!

We stayed under the trees for sometime before we headed for Tresaith.  Marvelling at a rainbow rising and falling into the sea.

The heathers are now adding colour to our journey, a brilliant purple carpet. For foragers, the hazel nut shells are hardening, the blackberries are ripening, the elder flowers have turned to berries and will soon be ready for that winter cold cure! So many rich pickings.

Stopping for a delicious lunch at The Ship in Tresaith, we comment on how great it is that so many of our food experiences on the coast, have included local Welsh produce. Such a vast improvement on previous years.

Quite steep descent and ascent at Tresaith leading to a pleasant walk to Aberporth. We passed a couple of converted railway carriages. I remembered a cozy stay in “Wendy” one of the conversions.

Ceredigion’s path signage may be a bit quirky, but I take my hat off to them for their public art. A skeleton ship at the entrance to the beach at Aberporth catches our eye – engraved in the stones are local ships lost at sea.

Crossing the beach, accessing the road past yet another Ship pub, we climb the seemingly never ending Rhiw y Rofft..

We arrive, breathless at the perimeter fence for the MOD. Skirting around the outskirts, we eventually turn right and then left across fields, then through woodland. A series of footbridges follow.

At Pencestyll we see warning signs for “non ionising radiation “. I am not sure what it meant but we hurry through the kissing gates, passing the military instillation on the hill towards our final stop Mwnt, with its little white chapel nestling at the base of Foel y Mwnt.

Mwnt is a favourite spot of mine for dolphin spotting and sunsets.

Thet tiny whitewashed Church of the Holy Cross dates from the 14th century, and nestles below Foel y Mwnt.

Lucy’s friend, Louise Williams, based her Bake Off design on this little church and when it collapsed on the show it was her turn to leave the kitchen. The memory resulted in a Lucy Tweet.

The beach at Mwnt is sheltered on all sides and has a National Trust Car park and toilets!

One thing we missed on this stretch is the Grid references on the signposting, and the Ceredigion Path logo predominates with few Wales Coast Path signs.

The path veers inland through a field and then down through Ferwig towards Gwbert with views across to Poppit Sands Following the track alongside the main road, we soon reach a turn off which takes us through fields with tantalising views down onto the river Teifi.

Crossing a road to some fields which takes us further away from the river, we follow the signs until we pass the Sewage works and we eventually drop down to Netpool.

The path takes us up Quay street, and you cannot miss the newly renovated 12th century castle. Walk down the hill to the Quay and across the bridge over the Teifi. Turn right passing a new Fusion Asian restaurant (this used to be the Eagle pub). Signposting needs to be looked out for the turn towards St Dogmaels Abbey – the only Tironian Order Abbey in England and Wales.

If you are lucky enough to be here on a Tuesday the local produce market is worthy of a visit – winner in its category of the BBC Good Food Award. Producers sourced within a 30 mile radius.

We had a hearty lunch at the White Hart pub nearby.