Category: Wales Coast Path

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The day started with some very frisky cattle being moved along the road to new pasture – it looked as if the whole farming family was out in force to help with the operation.

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A straight forward route. We elected to stay on the beach until Abersoch, then to the road via a car park, passing through the village to the junction by the garage and Londis stores. Passing the harbour with its colourful boats and buoys. We head up the hill on the Pwllheli road, before taking one of the paths back down to the beach.

Winter walking has you studying the weather forecast closer than you would for a family wedding!

We decided to cut the walk short, covering some 5 miles, as rain and high winds were due at 1pm.

The colourful beach huts in the National Trust car park made me smile. Fortunately my NT membership card was in my back pack, so no need to pay the parking fee.

Down to the beach we go. I had never been to Llanbedrog in the winter, so it was strange to see it devoid of people, as it is teeming in the summer months.

We walked along the beach then up some steps into a field. We elected to drop down onto the beach after Carreg y Defaid, while the WCP route sticks to the fields above. We realised why when we reached the sea defences and had to scrambled upwards to rejoin the path as it runs alongside the golf course.

From the Promenade it is a short walk into the town centre for a little retail therapy, bought heaps of Christmas pressies at Tonnau gallery,before heading to Dylan’s in Criccieth for a very long and enjoyable lunch. The rain came as we were making our way into the restaurant. The weather forecast had been spot on, we didn’t care. We still loved the Lleyn, but it was almost time to go home. Until the next time ….

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I get out of bed feeling grumpy – “Llwyr fy mhenol” we would say in Welsh – translated “ dragging my backside”.

I woke up at 3am with the rain had been lashing against my bedroom window.

It is very murky in the pre dawn – we drive to Criccieth in silence. Lucy is as enthusiastic about the forthcoming walk as I am.

It gets you like that sometimes – will it be lashing rain, shall we put it off until tomorrow? The castle looks dark and forbidding this morning as the waves lash against the beach front. Hard to believe that people were swimming in the sea the previous day.

Donning our wet weather gear; I opted for wellies instead of boots – we head off!

Up the hill with the castle to our left, along the promenade with the B&B and hotels on our right. The signposting has been great, if occasionally discreet, during these few stages of our walk.

We are very quickly on a path beside a field, the waves crashing below. I am rather glad we are on a raised path.

We welcome the duckboards along Afon Dwyfor, the river is running high, and ducks and wild geese are crowded on a small island in the centre. My mood lifts, it’s not a bad day after all, the winter sun is trying to make an appearance.

Over a railway bridge, and down a lane passing a farm onto the main road, after half a mile I become grumpy again! The traffic noise is intrusive and we had passed Llanystumdwy. I wished I had made a detour to the village to see the childhood home and burial place of David Lloyd George, it would have broken the monotony of this stretch.

Lucy and I had a positive conversation about the difficulty of designing a Coast Path, the need to cross rivers, accommodate land owners, terrain etc. So we excused the need to take in the A497, but we’re glad to turn off at Afon Wen.

A chocolate Labrador pup with a very deep bark bounded up to us as we reached the railway bridge. Lovely dogs labradors.

I was glad I had opted for wellies the path leading to Hafan y Mor was a bit mucky. The large caravan park here(used to be Butlins until 1987, now owned by Haven) is not very intrusive from the Coast.

Around Pen y Chain we go, the only rise in a very flat walk, down and across a very long beach Morfa Abererch – a combination of sand dune, pebbles and sand walking. This beach leads us to Pwllheli passing the very fine harbour development and around the promenade of the Inner Harbour straight to Pwllheli railway station and the neat ride on the Cambrian railway back to Criccieth, with a number of happy lady shoppers,

All in all not the most inspiring, mainly due to the stretch along the main road and the threat of rain, but both of us very satisfied that we had completed yet another 11 miles along the Wales Coast Path

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Sunday morning – glorious dawn – flame coloured skies. This turned out to be a superb, picturesque walk

We completed this walk in two bursts. Penrhyndeudraeth to Porthmadog followed by a road trip to Criccieth and walked back to Porthmadog.

Mainly because it was only 3 degrees centigrade at dawn, and we were staying in Porthmadog and decided to pop into our apartment on the harbour for a warm, where we reconsidered our route so we ended up at our apartment at the end of the walk!

I have frequently driven along the Cob in Porthmadog but not walked. Lucy and I couldn’t have picked a better day. The mountains were clearly reflected in the water, wading birds were out in force looking for their breakfast no doubt. Very few cars at such an early hour, a beautiful stillness!

Fast forward to Criccieth, a stop for coffee at Tir a Mor, a popular stop for Sunday Times readers or so it seemed, every other table seemed to be engrossed in the papers – not a bad way to start the day.

On the beach, a birthday group, some in the water swimming. It was getting warmer!

We were walking away from Criccieth Castle which dominates the town, initially a Llywelyn ap Iorweth build, but became another Edward I bastion, when we were approached by two ladies, who asked if we were walking the Wales Coast Path. They were from Mwnt and were also on a walking mission and enjoying the experience as much as we were.

The early stage of the walk is mainly on low ground, with a slight rise to Black Rock. There is a lengthy walk along Black Rock Sands. A speed limit is in place for the cars on the beach. Some boy racers were doing their best to ignore the signs. We splashed through the streams running down to the sea at Morfa Bychan. The November tides had washed up a number of alien looking jelly fish. Strange looking creatures – do they serve a purpose?

A little scramble off the beach at Ynys Cyngar, and a well placed seat for our water break, before taking in the broadwalk towards Samson’s Bay, eventually reaching steps and a bit of a steep walk through the woods.

It is plain sailing to the pretty harbour at Borth y Gest, and onwards to Porthmadog.

Whether it was the November sunshine or the magic of the Lleyn Peninsula, this was a truest memorable walk.

We ended the day with a short drive to Caernarfon, dinner at the Black Boy and National Theatre Live “The Follies” at the Galeri. Well worth the early start to the walk.

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This section sees us completing the Meirionnydd Coast Path.

One of these days I may walk the old route for the WCP which heads inland to Maentwrog before coming back towards Llandecwyn. Pont Briwet bridge has shortened the route considerably.

The route is well signposted with the only minor confusion for us was just after scrambling up and around the low hill at Bryn Glas, we had walked down the hill at an angle which made it difficult to locate the style to cross over the railway. A very messy farm track also needed negotiating. When finally on the dyke, it wasn’t surprising that the path was really muddy, which made it quite slithery and slippy. Well it is winter walking after all!

It is a beautiful stretch along the salt marsh – I did feel a bit guilty looking at the live stock and thinking – Yummie salt marsh lamb!

Reaching the road at Ynys, and following the route we reached the atmospheric Llanfihangel y Traethau church (St Michael’s of the Sands). One gravestone caught my eye, a lady called Gwen died at 48 buried with two daughters in their teens. So sad.

Over the bracken covered moor, and on reaching the estuary enjoy stunning views of the Italianate village of Portmeirion and Porthmadog.

The only blot on the landscape of this walk is the landfill site at Morfa Harlech, but we hurried along towards Harlech as we were loosing the daylight. We were not concerned as we could see we were fast approaching Harlech, dominated by the castle on the hill, one of Edward 1 fortifications held by Owain Glyndwr in 1404

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Dominated by Harlech Castle we make our way down to the beach at Harlech, passing by St David’s golf course to our right.

An easy start to the day turning left along the long stretch of beach – steep steps up from the beach, across the railway line and beyond – 112 in total. The path leads onto the main road for a few hundred yards before turning right towards Llandanwg.

We stopped at the Beach cafe and got to know the fat robin and chatted to the cafe owner who was very passionate about the events planned for the “Year of the Sea” in 2018.

It is worth spending time at the little medieval church of St Tanwg. Much of the graveyard is covered in dunes, but some of the gravestones have been rescued dating from the 15C.

Walk across the salt marshes, passing a little harbour eventually reaching a level crossing, workmen were in action, so we followed the path south and then right to a very smart footbridge crossing the river .

From Llanbedr take the road to Shell Island – passing through Llanbedr airfield we reached a concrete walkway across the reed beds, skirting the SSSI dunes of Morfa Dyffryn.  There is a concrete path leading through the dunes we were surrounded by dancing reeds as far as the eye could see, quite unnerving as we followed the sort of yellow concrete road through dangerous bogland.

This lead onto the longest stretch of unspoiled beach, deserted apart from us and a couple of jellyfish. No naturists today on the designated beach area – probably a bit nippy in November.

Coming up to the ten mile tracker we started to look for the white and red marker post which would lead us to the broadwalk and into the car parking area in Llanenddwyn

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A very rainy Sunday morning, we deferred this walk until mid- morning, and were rewarded by a watery winter sun.

Walking up the road from Llanenddwyn and followed the signs off the road at Bennar-Fawr. The walk is straightforward if a bit sketchy, through field, caravan and camping parks. A long stretch is along the main A496(some 2 miles),before turning off towards the beach at Barmouth.

It is worth looking inland towards Egryn the National Trust land taking in the complex network of stone walling – a true rural craft that has stood the test of time – not a trowel of cement in sight.. and the surprise of the day of our first Llamas!

A lengthy walk along the Promenade, the groynes casting long shadows on the sand. We were rewarded with a rainbow at the end of our walking weekend – is there a crock of gold?

Back in our little house next to The Last Inn pub, we pick up the car and head for the NorBar for a well deserved late Sunday lunch which is highly recommended.

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We took the early train out of Barmouth to Llwyngwril. We were joined on our walk by Louise Tambini, who is a passionate advocate for Keep Wales Tidy.

If you have never done the journey on the Cambrian Coast Railway, you should give it a go. I think it is the most scenic coastal train journey in the whole of the UK.

The conductor said that we would enjoy our walk as it “was truly beautiful, with a few ups and downs, but marvellous views. She was right on all counts.

It was a joy to be back in Llwyngwril – we saw more of the village yarn bombing masterpieces as we walked from the station. It put a smile on our faces. The sun was shining and all was well with the world.

We turned off the main road at Garthangharad Hotel. It is quite a steep climb from the village and out on the moorland.

We are now close to 1000 ft above sea level.. views out to the Mawddach, standing stones, old ruins, ancient settlements set against the burnished autumn bracken makes this a very atmospheric phase of our walk.

The walk is quite straightforward until we get to Cyfannedd. We loop around a farmhouse, a home made mileage marker has been placed against a stone seating area. Ahead we are confronted with a confusion of signs – none of them clearly indicating our route. Someone had sprayed an arrow in red paint and we headed over a small stream and down hill through a bed of bracken and woodland.

A slight detour to see the Blue lake in a disused quarry and we returned to the track and downhill to Friog.

Here the sign points southward – trust the sign, even though Barmouth is to the north, as shortly we turn off towards Fairbourne. We encounter a lady emerging from the beach wrapped in a towel, and wearing Doc Martens – not what you expect in November.

The so called Dragon’s Teeth dominate the front in Fairbourne – tank traps dating from World War II. Crossing the narrow Gauge railway we make short work of crossing to Morfa Mawddach and eventually reaching the wooden footbridge that is attached to the railway bridge and into Barmouth.

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A short walk of around 6km – just long enough to stretch our legs after a three hour drive.

Llwyngwril is a village of some 500 people, but it deserves to take centre stage for this walk. The yarn bombers of Llwyngwril have been very busy over the past couple of years and while some people paint the town, the good folk of Llwyngwril have decided to knit the town.