Don’t believe any guide book that tells you this is an 8 or 8.5 mile section – Ceredigion Path website has it as 9.4 miles – I only wish I had accessed their website, before planning what was going to be a relatively short walk before returning home.
The Ceredigion path seems to be gentler underfoot than its Pembrokeshire counterpart but the ups and downs are just as punishing, particularly on a very hot day in July.
After exploring New Quay and its Dylan Thomas connections just follow your nose up Rock Street to the Fish Factory and you hit the first rise and so it goes on.
Bird and dolphin watchers were out in force, as the previous evening the Dolphins had been frolicking in New Quay harbour – we didn’t spot any on our walk.
We stopped at Melyn y Gors cafe in Cwmtydu but as we came down the slope into the bay there is a sign that says 5.5 miles to Llangranog, the next sign some 300 yards along says 4.5… confused or what?
The path goes very near the edge in parts, we met a couple of people who said they hoped we didn’t have vertigo and we could see their point – at one stage the track looks as if it heads over the cliff into the sea – not surprisingly it has been called “The Path of Doom”. Despite the edges it is relatively easy to walk, a steady climb.
We take a rest before we head up the slope towards the Urdd centre and another slope. This is where we run into Malcolm, who is walking around Wales for two charities – Wales Air Ambulance and a deaf school in Ammanford. He gave us a great overview of the difficulties we may face heading further north, while we shared our experiences with the tides I. Pembrokeshire and the challenges on the St Dogmaels to Newport stretch.
He also was very helpful at a later stage when we reached Pendinas Lochtyn. The signs seem to indicate an uphill climb, via a concrete path – he had walked up to the top, as did we, but in reality the path goes round Pendinas and curves away from Ynys Lochtyn towards Llangranog. He saved us much confusion as we would have been trying to find a direct route down the hill
We soldiered on to the pretty village of Llangranog, grateful to have completed this deceptive but stunning section.