Author: Eirlys Thomas

Penrhyndeudraeth to Harlech – Wales Coast Path

November 26, 2017
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This section sees us completing the Meirionnydd Coast Path.

One of these days I may walk the old route for the WCP which heads inland to Maentwrog before coming back towards Llandecwyn. Pont Briwet bridge has shortened the route considerably.

The route is well signposted with the only minor confusion for us was just after scrambling up and around the low hill at Bryn Glas, we had walked down the hill at an angle which made it difficult to locate the style to cross over the railway. A very messy farm track also needed negotiating. When finally on the dyke, it wasn’t surprising that the path was really muddy, which made it quite slithery and slippy. Well it is winter walking after all!

It is a beautiful stretch along the salt marsh – I did feel a bit guilty looking at the live stock and thinking – Yummie salt marsh lamb!

Reaching the road at Ynys, and following the route we reached the atmospheric Llanfihangel y Traethau church (St Michael’s of the Sands). One gravestone caught my eye, a lady called Gwen died at 48 buried with two daughters in their teens. So sad.

Over the bracken covered moor, and on reaching the estuary enjoy stunning views of the Italianate village of Portmeirion and Porthmadog.

The only blot on the landscape of this walk is the landfill site at Morfa Harlech, but we hurried along towards Harlech as we were loosing the daylight. We were not concerned as we could see we were fast approaching Harlech, dominated by the castle on the hill, one of Edward 1 fortifications held by Owain Glyndwr in 1404

Harlech to Llanenddwyn – Wales Coast Path

November 12, 2017
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Dominated by Harlech Castle we make our way down to the beach at Harlech, passing by St David’s golf course to our right.

An easy start to the day turning left along the long stretch of beach – steep steps up from the beach, across the railway line and beyond – 112 in total. The path leads onto the main road for a few hundred yards before turning right towards Llandanwg.

We stopped at the Beach cafe and got to know the fat robin and chatted to the cafe owner who was very passionate about the events planned for the “Year of the Sea” in 2018.

It is worth spending time at the little medieval church of St Tanwg. Much of the graveyard is covered in dunes, but some of the gravestones have been rescued dating from the 15C.

Walk across the salt marshes, passing a little harbour eventually reaching a level crossing, workmen were in action, so we followed the path south and then right to a very smart footbridge crossing the river .

From Llanbedr take the road to Shell Island – passing through Llanbedr airfield we reached a concrete walkway across the reed beds, skirting the SSSI dunes of Morfa Dyffryn.  There is a concrete path leading through the dunes we were surrounded by dancing reeds as far as the eye could see, quite unnerving as we followed the sort of yellow concrete road through dangerous bogland.

This lead onto the longest stretch of unspoiled beach, deserted apart from us and a couple of jellyfish. No naturists today on the designated beach area – probably a bit nippy in November.

Coming up to the ten mile tracker we started to look for the white and red marker post which would lead us to the broadwalk and into the car parking area in Llanenddwyn

Llanenddwyn to Barmouth – Wales Coast Path

November 12, 2017
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A very rainy Sunday morning, we deferred this walk until mid- morning, and were rewarded by a watery winter sun.

Walking up the road from Llanenddwyn and followed the signs off the road at Bennar-Fawr. The walk is straightforward if a bit sketchy, through field, caravan and camping parks. A long stretch is along the main A496(some 2 miles),before turning off towards the beach at Barmouth.

It is worth looking inland towards Egryn the National Trust land taking in the complex network of stone walling – a true rural craft that has stood the test of time – not a trowel of cement in sight.. and the surprise of the day of our first Llamas!

A lengthy walk along the Promenade, the groynes casting long shadows on the sand. We were rewarded with a rainbow at the end of our walking weekend – is there a crock of gold?

Back in our little house next to The Last Inn pub, we pick up the car and head for the NorBar for a well deserved late Sunday lunch which is highly recommended.

Llwyngwril to Barmouth – Wales Coast Path

November 12, 2017
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We took the early train out of Barmouth to Llwyngwril. We were joined on our walk by Louise Tambini, who is a passionate advocate for Keep Wales Tidy.

If you have never done the journey on the Cambrian Coast Railway, you should give it a go. I think it is the most scenic coastal train journey in the whole of the UK.

The conductor said that we would enjoy our walk as it “was truly beautiful, with a few ups and downs, but marvellous views. She was right on all counts.

It was a joy to be back in Llwyngwril – we saw more of the village yarn bombing masterpieces as we walked from the station. It put a smile on our faces. The sun was shining and all was well with the world.

We turned off the main road at Garthangharad Hotel. It is quite a steep climb from the village and out on the moorland.

We are now close to 1000 ft above sea level.. views out to the Mawddach, standing stones, old ruins, ancient settlements set against the burnished autumn bracken makes this a very atmospheric phase of our walk.

The walk is quite straightforward until we get to Cyfannedd. We loop around a farmhouse, a home made mileage marker has been placed against a stone seating area. Ahead we are confronted with a confusion of signs – none of them clearly indicating our route. Someone had sprayed an arrow in red paint and we headed over a small stream and down hill through a bed of bracken and woodland.

A slight detour to see the Blue lake in a disused quarry and we returned to the track and downhill to Friog.

Here the sign points southward – trust the sign, even though Barmouth is to the north, as shortly we turn off towards Fairbourne. We encounter a lady emerging from the beach wrapped in a towel, and wearing Doc Martens – not what you expect in November.

The so called Dragon’s Teeth dominate the front in Fairbourne – tank traps dating from World War II. Crossing the narrow Gauge railway we make short work of crossing to Morfa Mawddach and eventually reaching the wooden footbridge that is attached to the railway bridge and into Barmouth.

Llwyngwril to Rhoslefain – Wales Coast path

November 12, 2017
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A short walk of around 6km – just long enough to stretch our legs after a three hour drive.

Llwyngwril is a village of some 500 people, but it deserves to take centre stage for this walk. The yarn bombers of Llwyngwril have been very busy over the past couple of years and while some people paint the town, the good folk of Llwyngwril have decided to knit the town.

Numerous mice and rats adorn the bridge, Blodeuwedd stands proud on a green space in front of some houses and as we turn up a side road by the church, the war memorial has a large display of knitted poppies.

There is quite a steep walk up the hill onto a common, over a couple of cattle grid and right onto a farm lane. Stiles and ladders are the order of the day.

The walk is well sign posted, with atmospheric stone walls, patchwork fields and picturesque ruin of an old cottage.

Despite the steep terrain, it doesn’t take long before we descend towards the main road at Rhoslefain. It is a bit muddy in parts, mainly due to recent rain.

Aberdyfi to Rhoslefain – Wales Coast Path

November 11, 2017
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Great to be back on the Wales Coast Path after a couple of months break.

The walk took us from Rhoslefain to Aberdyfi. Storm Brian hadn’t quite finished blowing itself out, so we were holed up in the pretty harbour town of Aberdovey, or Aberdyfi as we say in these parts, for a couple of days. No great hardship, a bit of retail therapy, lots of places to eat and drink, and our wee flat was right on the harbour.

Eventually the rain cleared and we headed out with gusto.

Leaving our car in a farm lane in Rhoslefain, making sure we caused no obstruction, we followed the track, then field to field, aiming for a large White House in the distance, then onto the road at Bwlch, passing the railway station in Tonfanau.

It is a brilliant day for walking – the air is clear, everything looks newly washed and laundered after the storm.

We take the cycle path across the Afon Dysynni. The walk to Tywyn is pretty straight forward. The caravans – sorry mobile homes, along the front soon come into sight. Lots of dog walkers about, glad to be out in the sunshine, their dogs bundles on energy.

When the lengthy promenade in Tywyn comes to an end, we eventually reach the sand dunes, it was easy to follow the path passing Aberdyfi golf course, one of the best links courses in Wales. We dropped down onto the pebble foreshore – the tide was out, so we were able to make our way across the pebbles onto the long sandy beach all the way to Aberdyfi, skirting the Yacht Club to reach our apartment located over Nandora’s dress shop.

Dinner at Coast Deli was the end of a perfect day’s walking.

Aberdovey/Aberdyfi to Machynlleth – Wales Coast Path

November 11, 2017
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A grey dawn, turning to rain. Wet weather gear on, we head out of Aberdyfi off passing the Literary Institute on the right, turning sharply uphill to the left at the point where it says Araf/Slow on the road. The climb and steps are quite steep, but the views over the town and harbour is worth the breathless effort.
Leaving Aberdyfi behind, bear right onto the quarry road, and before you know it you are heading left up the gorse covered Cefn Rhos, passing a stream heading uphill.

It has been raining heavily, the fields are pretty churned up, the cattle stare down at us from their vantage point on the hill, probably wondering what on earth we were doing there in such weather!

Go through a gate to the left of the farm yard and barn. We are now making good time along the road above Cwm Maethlon – Happy Valley. The rain has turned to a steady drizzle, but well worth pausing to enjoy the view.

We reach the slate marker for Carn March Arthur -legend has it that Llamrai -King Arthur’s horse left a hoof print while dragging a monster (Afanc) out of the nearby lake.

The tracks across the moors become quite rutted and filled with water – in an effort to avoid getting wet over our boots we steered off the path only to find it harder to cross the boggy terrain. This was Lucy’s first baptism by Bog, which necessitated a change of clothing when we got to firmer ground.

The sign posting is great – an easy walk passing a felled forest wood eventually reaching the main road – crossing over to Cefn Crib caravan Park.

This is where it all went horribly wrong. A car was parked in a gateway – little did we know that behind that car was a low lying sign for the coast path. We missed it and continued down a track, and with no other sign in sight we followed the green and yellow signs through mud, and bog and unfortunately a wooden bridge had been blocked off because it was rotten – so there was no way of crossing over to continue our way to Plas Talgarth. Another half dozen Bog baptisms and a dip in the river before we made it into the main road.

We were so grateful to Deilwen at Gogarth Hall Farm holidays who took pity on us, made us a cup of tea and called us a taxi. Thank the Lord for kind people.

Needless to say, we didn’t reach Machynlleth but after a peaceful evening and a couple of glasses of wine we completed the walk the following morning. Next day, the dawn was bright and beautiful – Storm Brian had disappeared and we decided to walk back from Machynlleth towards Cefn Crib caravan Park where we went horribly wrong the previous day!

Passed the Gothic clock tower we went enjoying the sunshine, across Dovey Bridge turning left and then a right, up a lane unsuitable for heavy vehicles. It is a steep climb, but the autumn colours and the view from the top was well worth the effort.

Right turn off the lane and the climb continues to the crest of the hill then down through a forest path until we reach a forestry road. Turning left, We were glad of the shade as it was getting a little bit warm climbing up the hill – walking in the shade of the forest cooled us down .

This walk was well signposted, we stopped at Pennal to take in the church and gardens dedicated to the Princes of Gwynedd. The neatly arranged gravestones gave insights into the social history of the area. We decided to walk along the main road to Cefn Crib , not taking any chances with getting lost

Machynlleth to Tre Taliesin – Wales Coast Path

September 26, 2017
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…I would walk 500 miles and I would walk 500 more..

I love that song by the Proclaimers, and that was our goal today to complete the Ceredigion stage of the Wales Coast Path and reach the 500 milestone.

This walk does not go anywhere near the coast, crossing the Dyfi estuary it takes you well inland, through backlanes, coniferous forest and ancient woodlands, with some first class views over the Dyfi estuary.

We were a bit apprehensive as we had been told that the route was not clearly signposted, and we had forgotten our map book!

Our fears were misplaced, there were only two places where we were slightly unsure, otherwise clear signposting with white top posts guiding us clearly through large fields.

We left the car park at Plas Machynlleth and almost immediately turned off to the right, Glyndwr Way and the Wales Coast Path run parallel at this stage. Up the well trodden “Roman Steps”, the first of our many ascents on this walk.

There are numerous twists and turns on this route, and I am not intending to recount every one, but did note some key landmarks

We diverge from Glyndwr Way down a leafy lane, through a field, onto a road towards Garthgwynion, continuing through the woodland of Llyfnant Valley.

Pass a house called Felin Llyfnant onto a road, cross a bridge and then left at a junction – you are now into Ceredigion.

When you reach a cluster of buildings, you have reached the aptly named Caerhedyn. Good dual use of bridleways for walking and riding along this stretch. We thankfully skirt Craig Caerhedyn, and start getting tantalising glimpses of the Dyfi estuary, before being exposed to the full view from Aberdovey across to Ynys Las and Borth in the far distance.

Dry stone walls, horses grazing on Foel Fawr, the bracken covered hillside turning brown as autumn approaches; onwards towards Cwm Einon otherwise known as Artists Valley so called after the 19th century artists who made their way here.

I vaguely remember that Led Zeppelin lived in a farmhouse in Artists Valley and wrote Stairway to Heaven. Deep green Moss and lichen here hug the trees, and the white frothy crystal clear water reminds me of a line from the song…… “In the tree by the brook, there’s a songbird who sings”. They could have been standing right here, when inspiration struck. (I do let my imagination run away with me at times)

From Cwm Einon there is road and track then meandering through several fields neatly guided by white topped signposts, before heading down to the main road at Tre’r Ddol then through the village to Tre Taliesin.

Finally, 508.5 miles in total to date.

Tre-Taliesin – Aberystwth – Wales Coast Path

September 1, 2017
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Tre Taliesin is a small village with very limited parking. We found a lay-by on the outskirts – the Machynlleth side. Taliesin was a bardic poet from the 6th century. Frank Lloyd Wright renowned named his home Taliesin favouring the poet, but with a nod to his grandparents who emigrated from Ceredigion to America

Good signposting down Church Street and for about 4 miles the walk is fairly straight forward. Through Cors Fachno, part of the Dyfi National Nature reserve, a Designated UNESCO Biosphere site.

We were joined on our walk through the Bog by a large heron which swooped up from the ditches as we approached, leading the way through the peat mire. Its broad wingspan reminded Lucy of a Tetradactyl.

The horse flies were not such welcome companions, multiple itchy bites from the persistent beggars!

As you leave Cors Fachno head to the left and then right as you might be tempted to take the more obvious path leading directly to the right of the gate.

Onwards to Borth, where people were very friendly, telling us all about the submerged forest and pointing us to a sculpture in Welsh slate inspired by the forest and the Legend of Cantre’r Gwaelog – an ancient legend which speaks of a fabulous city covering the length of Cardigan Bay which was drowned by the incoming sea.

We stopped for a cuppa at Oriel Tir a Mor – yet another welcoming venue. They cater for small walking groups, so worthy of note.

We made our way through the sleepy town, heading up the slope to the War Memorial. Looking down at Borth, it looks very vulnerable, low on the shore line – the view takes in the curve of Cardigan Bay, across Dovey Estuary to the Lleyn and Snowdon peak.

The leisurely start to this leg had lulled us into thinking the walk was going to be super easy. Not so, from the monument to Clarach Bay the path rises and falls constantly.

Thankfully, it evened out somewhat for the last stretch to Constitution Hill, we then gratefully zig-zagged our way down alongside the Cliff Railway to the Promenade at Aberystwyth …

Aberystwyth to Morfa Bychan – Wales Coast Path

August 5, 2017
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Sometimes things happen when you walk. Leaving home on a Saturday morning with the intention of walking constantly for three days ended in a two hour walk, a stressed shoulder, agonising pain, and cancelled hotels. A big shout out to the Wynnstay Hotel in Machynlleth and Maes Bach in Aberystwyth for their understanding following our late cancellation.

The walk itself took us over the bridge across the River Rheidol, skirting Tanybwlch beach, looking across at Pendinas and the monument commemorating the Duke of Wellington and Waterloo.

Following a steep climb up Allt Wen, we trudged along to Morfa Bychan, where the lovely team at the caravan park called a taxi. That was the end of our walk.

We did manage to take in the Sunday morning food festival before wisely calling off the weekend . Lesson learnt you not only need good legs for walking, you also need the rest of your body to be fully functioning ….

A pleasant encounter in the shared kitchen at Maes Bach made the weekend. A young woman from Newfoundland offered to share her breakfast. She had been a student at the University and had taken Welsh lessons, she was on her way to Nantgwrtheyrn for a Welsh refresher course. She loved Wales

We spoke in Welsh, she was currently living in Denmark and learning Danish. I admired her youthful commitment to absorbing the language and culture of both countries.