Morfa Nefyn to Nant Gwrtheyrn – Wales Coast Path

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We dithered this morning – not quite sure whether we could hack a climb up the Eifl mountain, after our time struggling with the mud the previous day.

We settled for a walk to Nant Gwrtheyrn stopping for longer breaks than usual. For the first time ever I am using a walking pole, kindly supplied by Lucy, to take the stress off my bruised hip. I have been a bit anti walking poles, but today I become a convert.

A short stroll from our apartment we access the steps leading to a well defined path across to the tiny headland at Penrhyn Nefyn and onwards to the small fishing harbour of Nefyn. In 1284 the English King Edward 1 held a jousting tournament in Nefyn when he defeated us Welsh. St Mary’s Church would have been on the pilgrimage route to Bardsey Island.

The path heads inland, we ignored the notice saying the path was closed, and we had no difficulty in walking onwards until we reached the main road on the outskirts of the village of Pistyll. Turning left, cross the road and follow the signs.

We pass a little church in a hollow, where Rupert Davis, the actor who played Maigret is buried.

We walk on above Porth Pistyll to Penrhyn Glas, we spy a sheep precariously clinging to the side of a rock, before climbing up to a ridge, then downwards through an ancient forest, you would expect to see goblins and wizards appear at any moment.

At Porth y Nant remains of the granite quarry is clear to see, although the working men’s cottages and allied buildings are now home to Nant Gwrtheyrn Welsh language and Heritage Centre. King Vortigen – King of Britain – 5th century – hid here from his enemies, and if you are interested do look up the legend of the Three Curses and the tragic love story of Rhys and Meinir.

Once at the Nant we had the hard slog up the hill to the car park, passing the creaking, groaning pine trees. A thoroughly satisfying day!


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