Porth Ychain to Morfa Nefyn – Wales Coast Path

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Had you ever heard the Hippopotamus Song by Flanders and Swann. The chorus goes something like-

Mud, mud glorious mud
Nothing quite like it for cooling the blood
So follow me, follow Down to the hollow
And there we can wallow in glorious mud.

It sums up the day!

To fully appreciate the striking scenery this section is probably best experienced between late Spring and Autumn not in the height of winter following a period of rain. The path mainly consists of disparate tracks, little more than sheep tracks, the mud is congealed. We were grateful for the sturdy farmers’ fences which gave us leverage on a number of occasions. The path follows the low lying cliffs, while normally I loathe steps, this time they are a welcome relief from the relentless slog!

At Porth Ysgaden, we explore the remaining wall of a lime kiln, the tin sheds at Porth y cychod are a source of curiosity, passed the popular beach at Porth Towyn -Tudweilog is easily reached from here, and it has been our intention the previous day to end our walk here.

Somewhere between Penrhyn Cwmistir and Aber Geirch we came across a colony of spotted seals …such a delight, I could have stayed watching for hours.

In startling contrast to the early stages of this walk is the appearance of Nefyn golf course in the distance, a bit of a scramble to access the course from the river below but welcome relief to skirt the edges of this beautifully manicured course.

Around Trwyth Porth Dinllaen and down to one of my favourite beaches in Wales – Porth Dinllaen. Unfortunately, The Ty Coch pub are on winter hours and wasn’t open!

One final walk across the bay to Morfa Nefyn and our bed for the night! Two further falls in the mud for me, and Lucy sinking into deep glutinous mud, but a fabulous if tiring day nonetheless.


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