Porthor or Porth Oer/ Whistling Sands to Aberdaron – Wales Coast Path

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This is the wildest, most remote and breathtaking (in both sense of the word). The views are spectacular, there are quite steep gradients, a totally engrossing walk.

We started from the National Trust car park in Porthor. Walk between the toilet blocks( thankfully open), onto the path. You are almost immediately out onto the cliff top path, leading to the heathland of Mynydd Anelog, down by an old wall , a little dog leg and down towards Porth Llanllawen. The path wanders nicely along the Coastal inlets.

Where there are gaps in the way mark signs, just follow the most defined path, up Mynydd Mawr. This is a steep walk, at one stage it looks virtually perpendicular. At one stage you think you have reached the top, but there is more climbing to follow, until you reach the coastguard station.

Once you reach the summit, there are splendid views across to Bardsey Island – it is reputed that 20,000 saints are buried on the island. It is quite thought provoking to think you are walking in the footsteps of pilgrims.

The concrete road leading away from the coastguard station provides an easy descent, and the path takes you close to the edge around Braich y Pwll, the very edge of Wales- no sign here to indicate we at “Wales End”.

Following on over the common and then a rocky patch we
didn’t go in search of St Mary’s Well, blessed by the Virgin Mary, so says the legend, it was blustery and I was a bit reluctant to go near the shore line.

The only place where we felt an additional sign would have been useful was at Pen y Cil, where the natural instinct would be to turn inland, but the path actually continues passing a cairn on the right.

Turning towards Aberdaron, we were glad to be sheltered from the wind. There is a steep walk down into Porth Meudwy, where the boats cross the sea to Bardsey in the summer, followed by a flight of steep steps up the other side.

It wasn’t long before we were walking down the steep set of steps to the beach at Aberdaron. We took one look at the steep steps leading up to the headland, and decided to walk across the beach to the village, and take our chances with the stream dissecting the sands.


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