Depending on which mileage chart you read, this walk is either 11 miles, 12.5 miles, or according to Louise’s fitness tracker we had walked 14 miles. The only certainty is that it was the muckiest winter walk since starting on the Wales Coast Path.
An early morning drive from Abersoch to Aberdaron certainly made us appreciate the remoteness of this part of the Lleyn, and also it’s raw beauty.
Aberdaron is a small wind swept seaside village, with mainly white washed houses. The National Trust membership has helped with the parking fees in this part of Wales yet again.
We had a debate at the Spar as to which direction to take, our guide book soon put us right, and we turned into a field and were on our way.
The path as far as Porth Yago was well defined if somewhat wet. The industrial ruins add to the atmosphere.
The lane leading up to a guest house is covered with deep mud, and the electric fence running along side seems forbidding.
It was after the iron gate leading out of the farm yard that the confusion began. The book says turn left, the signs mark the route as straight on and with one sign pointing randomly towards the heath.
We went straight on – only to come to a superb view point looking out on Bardsey Island, but no clear indication of the path.
Louise went over the top, Lucy and I retraced our steps to the gate to follow the guide book.
A helpful gentleman walking his dog told us that up ahead was very muddy, better take the road or stay high on Mynydd y Graig which we did, and the signs are clear again.
We cover the track to Rhiw fairly quickly. A helpful National Trust volunteer at Plas y Rhiw told us that it was impossible to access Hell’s Mouth beach further down the road, as there had been a landslide. His suggestion was to go passed the National Trust car park and follow the lane. He warned us that the beach boulders were very slippery and to take care. He was right.! We slid and slipped our way across to the long sandy stretch, with the very vulnerable crumbling cliffs to our left we walked the rest of the way along the beach.
The WCP takes you inland, but what a shame to miss out on Porth Neigwl/Hells Mouth.
Three tired women picked up the path again at the end of Hells Mouth and made our way to the Ship Inn to pick up the car. Catching sight of the super moon as we ended a long day.