Penrhyndeudraeth to Criccieth – Wales Coast Path

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Sunday morning – glorious dawn – flame coloured skies. This turned out to be a superb, picturesque walk

We completed this walk in two bursts. Penrhyndeudraeth to Porthmadog followed by a road trip to Criccieth and walked back to Porthmadog.

Mainly because it was only 3 degrees centigrade at dawn, and we were staying in Porthmadog and decided to pop into our apartment on the harbour for a warm, where we reconsidered our route so we ended up at our apartment at the end of the walk!

I have frequently driven along the Cob in Porthmadog but not walked. Lucy and I couldn’t have picked a better day. The mountains were clearly reflected in the water, wading birds were out in force looking for their breakfast no doubt. Very few cars at such an early hour, a beautiful stillness!

Fast forward to Criccieth, a stop for coffee at Tir a Mor, a popular stop for Sunday Times readers or so it seemed, every other table seemed to be engrossed in the papers – not a bad way to start the day.

On the beach, a birthday group, some in the water swimming. It was getting warmer!

We were walking away from Criccieth Castle which dominates the town, initially a Llywelyn ap Iorweth build, but became another Edward I bastion, when we were approached by two ladies, who asked if we were walking the Wales Coast Path. They were from Mwnt and were also on a walking mission and enjoying the experience as much as we were.

The early stage of the walk is mainly on low ground, with a slight rise to Black Rock. There is a lengthy walk along Black Rock Sands. A speed limit is in place for the cars on the beach. Some boy racers were doing their best to ignore the signs. We splashed through the streams running down to the sea at Morfa Bychan. The November tides had washed up a number of alien looking jelly fish. Strange looking creatures – do they serve a purpose?

A little scramble off the beach at Ynys Cyngar, and a well placed seat for our water break, before taking in the broadwalk towards Samson’s Bay, eventually reaching steps and a bit of a steep walk through the woods.

It is plain sailing to the pretty harbour at Borth y Gest, and onwards to Porthmadog.

Whether it was the November sunshine or the magic of the Lleyn Peninsula, this was a truest memorable walk.

We ended the day with a short drive to Caernarfon, dinner at the Black Boy and National Theatre Live “The Follies” at the Galeri. Well worth the early start to the walk.


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